So I disconnected the battery for 1 hour and it still didn't ask for the headunit security code so I know it did not completely reset. I think I'll have to do it for longer. Does anyone know how long it will have to be disconnected from the battery to reset the ECU? When we put the amp in it was disconnected for hours. I want to do a complete reset instead of pulling fuses since its multiple items that need resetting.
2017 Civic Hatchback - AC, Shifter Backlights and Blue Interior Not lit
Hello Everyone,
I spent the weekend installing an amp and subs into my 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback EX. After it was complete I notice my air conditioner back-lights were no longer lit and the single blue interior light was also not lit up. I didn't notice this until night driving. Everything else works fine.
I have tried disconnecting the negative terminal for 10 min but that didn't seem to do anything. I tried resetting the infotainment system (holding down the power button for 2 min). That didn't seem to work either. I also made sure it wasn't any of the brightness controls.
I had a similar problem in my 2010 Mazda where some lights were not lit and the audio controls on the center console were delayed. 1 Mazda dealership quoted me for an entire new head-unit! Another Mazda dealer reset the ECU by leaving the battery disconnected for a while and it was free of charge. So in other words, dealerships are just as good as you guys.
Should I try completely disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so? in order to reset the ECU? I have the radio security code.
Thoughts?
I spent the weekend installing an amp and subs into my 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback EX. After it was complete I notice my air conditioner back-lights were no longer lit and the single blue interior light was also not lit up. I didn't notice this until night driving. Everything else works fine.
I have tried disconnecting the negative terminal for 10 min but that didn't seem to do anything. I tried resetting the infotainment system (holding down the power button for 2 min). That didn't seem to work either. I also made sure it wasn't any of the brightness controls.
I had a similar problem in my 2010 Mazda where some lights were not lit and the audio controls on the center console were delayed. 1 Mazda dealership quoted me for an entire new head-unit! Another Mazda dealer reset the ECU by leaving the battery disconnected for a while and it was free of charge. So in other words, dealerships are just as good as you guys.
Should I try completely disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so? in order to reset the ECU? I have the radio security code.
Thoughts?
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
really have no idea how you can fix this. Do you need to do a factory data reset?
I'm leaving the battery disconnected all day while I'm at work today. We'll see if it resets completely after that.
I'd open up the radio console and look for a plug that came loose or a wire that got pulled. I assume you needed to fish around behind the radio to run wires. Retrace the work. Otherwise maybe there was/is a short.
Leaving the car off for 8+ hours did not help. I also noticed the taillights are not lit. The brake lights are however. Swapping the interior light fuse did not help; this is the map light and not the ambient and AC backlights.
I know I read on here a similar problem. The tail light relay is also fine.
I know I read on here a similar problem. The tail light relay is also fine.
So there was a blown parking light fuse and replacing that fixed that problem but the other ambient lights are still not fixed. Anyone know what these do? Also I dont have power lumbar or seats but there is a fuse in it.
Accessory is probably the USB and cig adapter but no idea what option is
Will be checking all tomorrow
Accessory is probably the USB and cig adapter but no idea what option is
Will be checking all tomorrow
Definitely another fuse somewhere. Have you gone through all of them individually ?
How did you run the wires for the amplifier ? Through a line converter ??
It is possible that when you popped the fuse, the ambient lights could have burnt out too, I've done it in my car before by accident but somehow only the heated seat light went out. But I would check every fuse first and go from there
How did you run the wires for the amplifier ? Through a line converter ??
It is possible that when you popped the fuse, the ambient lights could have burnt out too, I've done it in my car before by accident but somehow only the heated seat light went out. But I would check every fuse first and go from there
Yes there is a AudioControl LC2i in the glove box. I think the issue resides with the fuse we tapped into which is the the fuel pump B8-15A. We used an adapter and put 2 fuses in it but I think the converter is taking the power. Apparently the ambient lights circuit through this go figure.
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Have any suggestions on which fuse to tap?
Why not run a straight power wire to the battery with an inline fuse ??
Can't help with the fuse problem, but would love to see how the subs look in the hatchback, where you put them, and know why you picked the location that you did.
That was legit going to be my follow up for when he got this figured out but... you're an eager beaver and I appreciate it 0Can't help with the fuse problem, but would love to see how the subs look in the hatchback, where you put them, and know why you picked the location that you did.
How is the shift quality for this car ? Long throw or short throw ? Does the shifting from 1st gear to 2nd smooth and quick in this car ?
You might want to start a new thread for this new topic.How is the shift quality for this car ? Long throw or short throw ? Does the shifting from 1st gear to 2nd smooth and quick in this car ?
Lol id lovee to see your set up and how you ran wires and everything lol
Update: subs were installed professionally and issue remains. Anyone else have this issue??
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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