I'm contemplating the purchase of a 2016 Civic EX-T because I can't justify the added cost of the Touring. However, I find the sound system to be a bit weak in the EX-T trim. Is the system pre-wired for a subwoofer that it can be added and/or can the default speakers be easily replaced with more powerful speakers to get better sound? I don't want to buy a new car and mod it with a bunch of non-factory components and aftermarket wires, but I also don't want to settle for the EX-T's factory sound. The car is too new for me to be able to research these things online and I don't trust a salesperson to know enough.
EX-T sound system upgrade options?
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I don't think the wires for the subwoofer would be there since the amp is different and probably wouldn't have the output for a subwoofer. You can add a powered sub by tapping off the rear deck speakers. You will have to run power from the battery. It would sound better than the subwoofer in the touring. Of course the touring adds a lot more than just the subwoofer/amp.
Just changing the speakers wouldn't do much unless you are also changing the amp and/or headunit. In fact you may get less sound. Factory speakers are designed for efficiency at the expense of good sound. When I upgraded the speakers in my last car the sound level was much lower, though it did sound cleaner. I had to add an in-line amp get back to a decent volume. It was worth it because it was louder and better.
The sound system in the touring isn't great, but it's good enough to keep me from upgrading... for now.
Just changing the speakers wouldn't do much unless you are also changing the amp and/or headunit. In fact you may get less sound. Factory speakers are designed for efficiency at the expense of good sound. When I upgraded the speakers in my last car the sound level was much lower, though it did sound cleaner. I had to add an in-line amp get back to a decent volume. It was worth it because it was louder and better.
The sound system in the touring isn't great, but it's good enough to keep me from upgrading... for now.
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Polk DB651s are good speakers if you intend to keep the stock head unit. They have high sensitivity and they sound great.
Slim:
They also come in regular depth but I don't know if they fit. You also generally need adapters (amazon has them) if you swap out the original speakers (unless you're handy and want to build them out of MDF and don't mind splicing/soldering.
That's what's going in my 2016 Civic Touring Sedan, along with a mono amp and a slim Pioneer sub
The stock system is pretty bad, especially the so-called sub.
Slim:
They also come in regular depth but I don't know if they fit. You also generally need adapters (amazon has them) if you swap out the original speakers (unless you're handy and want to build them out of MDF and don't mind splicing/soldering.
That's what's going in my 2016 Civic Touring Sedan, along with a mono amp and a slim Pioneer sub
The stock system is pretty bad, especially the so-called sub.
Well, after taking another look at the car and bringing my Lightning cable to test sound from CarPlay, I didn't find the sound system to be as bad as I remembered. I can live with it for a few months or a year until I try to boost it a bit. I noticed that hip-hop is definitely a weak point, but I'll see how others modify their cars for better sound. Until then, I decided to buy the car and so far I'm very happy for the price!
Have you heard of (constrained layer dampening ), you treat any car with this and the sound will improve tenfold, I have tried many brands for the head unit and over the years I found that Alpine makes the best of them but that's just me, maybe others prefer something else, amplifier is definitely a must to have better clarity and louder speakers, acoustic dampening gives you a whole different level of performance out of your speakers.
Here's a link to a web site where you can better inform yourself, hope it helps you.
http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/car-audio/
Here's a link to a web site where you can better inform yourself, hope it helps you.
http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/car-audio/
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346 Posts
That amazon link you posted doesnt workPolk DB651s are good speakers if you intend to keep the stock head unit. They have high sensitivity and they sound great.
Slim: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0NJPS/ref=psdc_10980771_t2_B000P0PF9G
They also come in regular depth but I don't know if they fit. You also generally need adapters (amazon has them) if you swap out the original speakers (unless you're handy and want to build them out of MDF and don't mind splicing/soldering.
That's what's going in my 2016 Civic Touring Sedan, along with a mono amp and a slim Pioneer sub
The stock system is pretty bad, especially the so-called sub.
Mauiboy
you need to set signals so they are all the same. the factory amp buts an audio curve by default on your sound, which changes the sound as the volume goes up. they do this so you don't blow your speakers. so to demodulate the built in sound curve you need a jl audio FIX. that will get all your frequencies the same. then you can slap an amp on there and be kicking some hippie butt. but if you want to eq it, you will want to add a jl audio twk.
Your line out converters from audio control only deals with the "gap" in bass, not the actual volume of it changing that's built into the factory amp. hope this helps.
you need to set signals so they are all the same. the factory amp buts an audio curve by default on your sound, which changes the sound as the volume goes up. they do this so you don't blow your speakers. so to demodulate the built in sound curve you need a jl audio FIX. that will get all your frequencies the same. then you can slap an amp on there and be kicking some hippie butt. but if you want to eq it, you will want to add a jl audio twk.
Your line out converters from audio control only deals with the "gap" in bass, not the actual volume of it changing that's built into the factory amp. hope this helps.
I'm with 5tar on the deadening. I did two layers on outer door, one layer on inside door and then a layer of foam on inside of door and its quiet. you cant hear cars around you, only tire and engine noise. need to do floor next, ohh and the trunk. the deadening reduces your noise ceiling a lot. I'm able to hear what little bass is in the factory stereo now.
On that point about how it cancels out noise, over time you have to make sure you stay on top of maintenance since now you won't hear certain things happening that signal what might be going wrong. But following the maintenance intervals and getting inspections every so often will ensure you are in the best position possible as an owner.
How hard was it to install the sound deadening material? Did you go with Dynamat?
I have used RAAMaudio since 1997. I was able to complete 3 layers of raamat on the door with one layer of foam and the trunk well with the below ordered. it was super easy, just time consuming. i should have ordered two of each so i could of finished the floor and trunk. all i hear is the engine now and road noise form the crappy factory tires.
1x RAAMmat BXT II, 37.5 sq ft bulk pack
1x Package # 2 -------- 30 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (56.25 sq ft) and 4 1/2 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (62.43 sq ft)
1x RAAMmat BXT II, 37.5 sq ft bulk pack
1x Package # 2 -------- 30 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (56.25 sq ft) and 4 1/2 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (62.43 sq ft)
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38 Posts
I own a 2016 Civic Coupe EX-T, and I have a rear sub which I unhooked altogether and used
a "Line Output Converter" to send an RCA signal to an Aftermarket amplifier hooked up to
a pair of 12 inch subs in a pre-fab ported box.
With the bass and subwoofer completely turned down on the head-unit,
I still get magnificent bass and more clarity through the door speakers.
Unfortunately, the OEM amplifier has pre-determined sound processing
that makes the subwoofer low-pass at about 75 hz.
and the door speakers still gets a significant amount of bass which
causes a distortion at higher volumes.
The best option for completely independent user configuration is
to purchase something called a digital processing unit that accepts multiple high input signals
like the AudioControl DM-608 which has full customization of audio preferences.
There are cheaper products on the market, but I doubt will perform as well.
Sorry for digging up an old thread. I just wanted to clarify on additional options.
The sound-deadening materials will probably work, but I'm fairly certain my
coupe already has a ton of it in the doors which sound fantastic, already.
I've noticed a ton of rattling on the rear deck behind my back seats which I've seen in
other threads that people have had to do to reduce or eliminate rattle in the rear.
a "Line Output Converter" to send an RCA signal to an Aftermarket amplifier hooked up to
a pair of 12 inch subs in a pre-fab ported box.
With the bass and subwoofer completely turned down on the head-unit,
I still get magnificent bass and more clarity through the door speakers.
Unfortunately, the OEM amplifier has pre-determined sound processing
that makes the subwoofer low-pass at about 75 hz.
and the door speakers still gets a significant amount of bass which
causes a distortion at higher volumes.
The best option for completely independent user configuration is
to purchase something called a digital processing unit that accepts multiple high input signals
like the AudioControl DM-608 which has full customization of audio preferences.
There are cheaper products on the market, but I doubt will perform as well.
Sorry for digging up an old thread. I just wanted to clarify on additional options.
The sound-deadening materials will probably work, but I'm fairly certain my
coupe already has a ton of it in the doors which sound fantastic, already.
I've noticed a ton of rattling on the rear deck behind my back seats which I've seen in
other threads that people have had to do to reduce or eliminate rattle in the rear.
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1 Posts
rca outs
HI All
I'm thinking about buying a Honda civic coupe. Supposedly this car stereo system is 450 watts. How does the head unit provide this much power? Does it have rca outs with a amplifier? I was hoping the radio had rca outs so I could use my old soundstream amps.
HI All
I'm thinking about buying a Honda civic coupe. Supposedly this car stereo system is 450 watts. How does the head unit provide this much power? Does it have rca outs with a amplifier? I was hoping the radio had rca outs so I could use my old soundstream amps.
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38 Posts
So ... I've got a 2017 Coupe EX-T with the 10 speaker system ...
I'm actually very satisfied with it, BUT !!!
Even after turning the Bass and Subwoofer to minimum,
there's still a TON of bass coming from the interior speakers.
I used an Line Output Converter from the Rear Left and Subwoofer in the rear deck
Ran that into a "2000watt" db drive A7 amp into 2 12inch db drive K9 "2000watt" subs.
Unfortunately, the bass has vibrated every interior panel loose and the entire car rattles now.
However, the most annoying part is the distortion from bass coming from the interior speakers.
I'm actually very satisfied with it, BUT !!!
Even after turning the Bass and Subwoofer to minimum,
there's still a TON of bass coming from the interior speakers.
I used an Line Output Converter from the Rear Left and Subwoofer in the rear deck
Ran that into a "2000watt" db drive A7 amp into 2 12inch db drive K9 "2000watt" subs.
Unfortunately, the bass has vibrated every interior panel loose and the entire car rattles now.
However, the most annoying part is the distortion from bass coming from the interior speakers.
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