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Nice I have a CVT as well so that is good info to get. Helps when deciding what product to buy. The CVT alongside the turbo on this engine is not bad at all and some people might look down on the CVT because its considered the least fun engine to drive even though its design its actually pretty genius for what it does. The downside though of the CVT is its limited to how much strain you can put in the engine in comparison to the MT so if people buy the CVT hoping to build an engine with 300+hp and torque then they will sadly be let down. I would also consider the light weight of the car which also adds to making the car seem fast so enough though you might not be able to build as high of a performing engine its still quite fun to drive.
 

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After much research, contemplation and consternation, I had a Reflash done on my 2016 CVT touring coupe. Since the car is stock (no mods) and I plan on keeping that way I decided against the more expensive FlashPro...the Reflash was done by an authorized FlashPro dealer for $300.00


So, is it worth ???????? I guess that depends on your expectations...


...Since most of the (minor) hesitation is related to the CVT, neither the FlashPro nor the Reflash would directly do much.
I quoted three lines here for three comments:


1) This might all be a good argument for investing in the FlashPro vs. "a flash" at a dealer. For one thing - having the FlashPro might allow you to make additional tweaks and flashes to address some of your remaining concerns.
But it also allows you to restore back to stock, just to avoid headaches at dealerships... and while I might be advocating the "two wrongs don't equal a right" approach, I'd prefer not to give the stealership any reason to deny warranty coverage that you certainly are paying for as a part of that car payment.


2) "Worth the money" is not necessarily tied to expectations... the "worth the money" is in relation to what it does. Whether what it does aligns with what you personally want is a whole different story. If it doesn't do what you personally want, saying that it's only 60% "worth the money" is perhaps a bit unfair... but I think just an inadvertent wording choice on your part.

That being said - I get what you are saying, and really appreciate your details. They help qualify your statement, and provide helpful info for us future-planners... it'll help me set my own personal expectations for sure. Well described, and thanks. :cool:


3) I have read this "...blame is on the CVT, not the turbo..." type statement several times from several people. In many ways the two are so intertwined, makes it a little less cut and dried than these statements. As with any automatic, it's in large part shifting based on what it "feels"/senses from the engine and throttle, and perhaps even more than your traditional automatic, it responds more or less aggressively based on software that's doing that "feeling". The difference in what happens when you have it in "S" vs "D"... that is transmission software. Then note "Eco" feels slower-shifting again, but in that case my understanding is it's solely an engine tune, and the CVT is responding accordingly based on the engine parameters.

That being said...
I'd love clarification on whether the Hondata tune(r) does, or does not allow you to adjust the parameters that sharpen up the CVT response - either directly or indirectly? Is the Transmission really controlled by a wholly separate ECU/BCU?


Personally, a "dream tune" in my opinion would be:
  • "S" - Hondata tune with aggressive CVT response (and manual hold with the paddles)
  • "D" - Hondata tune with daily-driving/commuting CVT response
  • "D"/ Eco - Stock tune with stock CVT response.
Is that possible (or is that possibly even exactly what the latest Hondata update provided)?
 

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So I just bought Hondata and loaded the +6 psi tune, I have a few questions. First I noticed in normal mode (not sport mode) while driving my car won’t go past like 5,000 rpms, is there a way to fix that. In sport mode it goes to red line. Second durning a 20 miles I notice a burning gas kind of smell, will that go away. By the time I was done driving I think it went away but I could have gotten use to it. I drove with the windows down the whole time. Third question I don’t really want to race the car just like the extra get up and go when I need/want to have fun lol, should I use the +6 psi carb or non carb, will using carb keep my gas mileage better than using non carb in normal driving? Or is carb a California thing, I live in North Carolina. Forth question I have a Injen cold air intake on the way is there a tune for the added CAI or just keep the normal +6 psi?
 

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To answer a few of your questions, the CVT 10th Gen Civics will usually shift around 5,000 RPMs unless Sport Mode is on. The CVT does not like to shift at redline normally.

The slight "gas" smell or burning smell can result anytime you push the car hard, especially if the car is brand new. All cars burn a small amount of oil from time to time...it is nothing to worry about. In addition, on brand new cars, remember that plastics and other materials give off odors when they get really hot.
 

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Pro civic, thanks for the input on the gas smell, the shifting thing I forgot to mention is my cars the 17 civic si. I managed to fix it by turning off full throttle shifting, not sure how it was related but I can now shift at redline instead of it forcing me to shift at 5000rpms. I’m still getting use to the flash lol
 

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I quoted three lines here for three comments:


1) This might all be a good argument for investing in the FlashPro vs. "a flash" at a dealer. For one thing - having the FlashPro might allow you to make additional tweaks and flashes to address some of your remaining concerns.
But it also allows you to restore back to stock, just to avoid headaches at dealerships... and while I might be advocating the "two wrongs don't equal a right" approach, I'd prefer not to give the stealership any reason to deny warranty coverage that you certainly are paying for as a part of that car payment.


2) "Worth the money" is not necessarily tied to expectations... the "worth the money" is in relation to what it does. Whether what it does aligns with what you personally want is a whole different story. If it doesn't do what you personally want, saying that it's only 60% "worth the money" is perhaps a bit unfair... but I think just an inadvertent wording choice on your part.

That being said - I get what you are saying, and really appreciate your details. They help qualify your statement, and provide helpful info for us future-planners... it'll help me set my own personal expectations for sure. Well described, and thanks. :cool:


3) I have read this "...blame is on the CVT, not the turbo..." type statement several times from several people. In many ways the two are so intertwined, makes it a little less cut and dried than these statements. As with any automatic, it's in large part shifting based on what it "feels"/senses from the engine and throttle, and perhaps even more than your traditional automatic, it responds more or less aggressively based on software that's doing that "feeling". The difference in what happens when you have it in "S" vs "D"... that is transmission software. Then note "Eco" feels slower-shifting again, but in that case my understanding is it's solely an engine tune, and the CVT is responding accordingly based on the engine parameters.

That being said...
I'd love clarification on whether the Hondata tune(r) does, or does not allow you to adjust the parameters that sharpen up the CVT response - either directly or indirectly? Is the Transmission really controlled by a wholly separate ECU/BCU?


Personally, a "dream tune" in my opinion would be:
  • "S" - Hondata tune with aggressive CVT response (and manual hold with the paddles)
  • "D" - Hondata tune with daily-driving/commuting CVT response
  • "D"/ Eco - Stock tune with stock CVT response.
Is that possible (or is that possibly even exactly what the latest Hondata update provided)?
When I have my Sport HB in sport manual mode using the paddles I can redline each shift while using the paddles, would that be manual hold?
 

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Pro civic, thanks for the input on the gas smell, the shifting thing I forgot to mention is my cars the 17 civic si. I managed to fix it by turning off full throttle shifting, not sure how it was related but I can now shift at redline instead of it forcing me to shift at 5000rpms. I’m still getting use to the flash lol
Ah, that makes sense. You can play around with the full throttle shift parameters to change when it kicks in. The whole reason Hondata came out with that was to eliminate boost lag during shifts in order to achieve the best 0-60 and 1/4 mile times.
 

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Ah, that makes sense. You can play around with the full throttle shift parameters to change when it kicks in. The whole reason Hondata came out with that was to eliminate boost lag during shifts in order to achieve the best 0-60 and 1/4 mile times.


Thanks procivic now I understand it, do you happen to know if the +6PSI with sport button tune changes the PSI on the non sport mode tune. If full throttle shifting works on both I'm assuming the +PSI is on both as well, someone at Honda said that stock is 12 psi normal and 18 psi when sport mode is on, not sure how +6 PSI only gets me to 22 PSI seems likes that's +4 not 6
 

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Thanks procivic now I understand it, do you happen to know if the +6PSI with sport button tune changes the PSI on the non sport mode tune. If full throttle shifting works on both I'm assuming the +PSI is on both as well, someone at Honda said that stock is 12 psi normal and 18 psi when sport mode is on, not sure how +6 PSI only gets me to 22 PSI seems likes that's +4 not 6
By someone at Honda, do you mean your dealer? It would be odd for normal/sport mode to change power/psi, it typically only affects the drive-by-wire map in order to adjust throttle response. It also changes power steering assist and the shock settings in the Si, but as far as the engine goes it typically only adjust how sensitive the gas pedal is.

It sounds like something went wrong with your first +6 reflash with the 5k rev limit in normal. I've run the 6, 9, and a custom tune on my EX-T 6spd and there was no change to the rev limiter in any mode in any tune. The no lift shift wasn't available when I had the 6, but I have it active on my current tune.

I don't believe NC is a CARB state, so I'd use whichever map is most up to date. There shouldn't be much difference between them.

Any change in airflow/temp from the CAI will be seen by the MAP sensor and compensated for within the base tune. If you really want to squeeze every possible HP out of your car, you'll want a custom tune, on a dyno, by someone who knows what they are doing. Hondata's site has a dealer list.
 

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Just to be clear, Sport Mode will not change boost levels on a 2017 Si straight from the factory (without a FlashPro).

It does sound like you might have changed your Rev Limits on accident to something lower than the factory values.
 

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I just did a Hondata FlashPro reflash on my 2017 Civic Si. It took care of the rev-hang and gave much more low-end torque. Gas mileage seems to have been unaffected.
Do you feel noticeable difference in mid range? Any unexpected issues? I have hondata on way for my 2017 too.
 

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Ok loaded +6 tune. Certainly turns up boost. Ok hate to be downer but the transition from off boost to on is rather abrupt. Great for drag race but driving back roads in turns etc it's a little too on off for my taste. The added power also highlights weakness in suspension. Car struggles with putting down that sudden boost that hits at 3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd gear. Also get some wheel hop now. Seems like it could have tipped in boost a little more gradually. Perhaps that's why tune from factory came way it did. I'll drive it some to see if I can manage power delivery with my foot. If not I may just go back to stock tune. I can live without straightline speed for better throttle modulation in turns.

Tried flat shift. That's kind of cool!
 

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Ok loaded +6 tune. Certainly turns up boost. Ok hate to be downer but the transition from off boost to on is rather abrupt. Great for drag race but driving back roads in turns etc it's a little too on off for my taste. The added power also highlights weakness in suspension. Car struggles with putting down that sudden boost that hits at 3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd gear. Also get some wheel hop now. Seems like it could have tipped in boost a little more gradually. Perhaps that's why tune from factory came way it did. I'll drive it some to see if I can manage power delivery with my foot. If not I may just go back to stock tune. I can live without straightline speed for better throttle modulation in turns.

Tried flat shift. That's kind of cool!
The boost ramp can be adjusted with the FlashPro and, yes, I agree the extra power makes the factory suspension softness more apparent. Luckily, there are plenty of suspension upgrades available. If you haven't already, take a look at our website www.procivic.com for the whole selection. Our 2017 EXT literally feels like an entirely different car now after all the suspension upgrades.
 

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Ok loaded +6 tune. Certainly turns up boost. Ok hate to be downer but the transition from off boost to on is rather abrupt. Great for drag race but driving back roads in turns etc it's a little too on off for my taste. The added power also highlights weakness in suspension. Car struggles with putting down that sudden boost that hits at 3500 rpm in 1st and 2nd gear. Also get some wheel hop now. Seems like it could have tipped in boost a little more gradually. Perhaps that's why tune from factory came way it did. I'll drive it some to see if I can manage power delivery with my foot. If not I may just go back to stock tune. I can live without straightline speed for better throttle modulation in turns.

Tried flat shift. That's kind of cool!
isnt flat shift for only +9psi?
 

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No, it can be used on any tune. With the FlashPro, you can even modify the factory tune to allow flat foot shifting.


When setting up full throttle shifting what RPM limit should we set the limit at. Red line or my normal WOT shift point which is around 6000 RPMs
 
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