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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
5800

1. I wanted to keep the FF assembly lube in as long as reasonably possible.

2. We had a hurricane disaster and that delayed it for a week.

3. I couldn't make it to the dealer cause I chose it 1 hr away for superior customer service.

4. I wanted to only use the Honda oil so I can EXTEND THE BREAK-in with the same formula oil without new additives etc

5. I will follow the MMS from here on out even though it dinged me for idling with A/C on.
 

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My 1st oil change was around or near the 5k mile mark. I don't remember the color or consistency of it, but I'm fairly certain it appeared pretty dark. I'm currently at 15k and just did my 3rd change, and they've all come out nearly the same. This coming from a guy that drives at a constant 3-5k rpm if tolerable ... for some reason, the oem noise of the 1.5t at high rpm makes me cringe, like the head is about to explode through the hood. The only issue I've noticed (which may be unrelated) is the possibility of a boost leak, but I think the computer is just pulling boost and running rich because I'm running 87 octane and its detecting engine knock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am a dealer tech (20 years with Acura/Honda) every couple years we get another service bulletin from Engineering stating that doing the first oil change early can damage the engine, and we are NOT to change the factory fill early. The factory fill oil is not the issue, it is the high moly assembly lube used they want retained in the oil. Doing the first oil change early can cause hot spots to form in the engine.
 

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I am a dealer tech (20 years with Acura/Honda) every couple years we get another service bulletin from Engineering stating that doing the first oil change early can damage the engine, and we are NOT to change the factory fill early. The factory fill oil is not the issue, it is the high moly assembly lube used they want retained in the oil. Doing the first oil change early can cause hot spots to form in the engine.
you are a tech?...and past due your oil change?.....i wouldnt hire you after that....cant even follow the maintenance minder correctly......
 

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When are you actually supposed to do the first oil change? The dealer sticker says 3000miles but the computer in the car will probably still say 50% oil life remaining at 3000 miles.
It's an oil thread, and you're going to get 100 different answers from 100 different know-it-all's (myself included). I've done full synthetic changes on all of my cars since 1999 at 5,000 mile intervals, which is perhaps a bit sooner than necessary (the oil likely has a lot of life remaining at that point) but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

On my 2017 Civic Hatch I did my first change at 5,000, and my second at 10,000, using Amsoil XL and an OE Honda filter. I rotate the tires at every service, and at 15,000 I'll drop the CVT oil and refill with the Genuine Honda product (there is a difference, I'm told), along with replacing the cabin vent and engine air filters. I've followed this interval on all of my cars (with the exception of the M/T equipped cars; they only got transmission fluid services every-other year) and I've had exactly ZERO engine problems, including oil consumption. Also, by rotating the tires every 5,000 miles I'm able to inspect both the tires and the brakes to ensure that my alignment is in good order and that my car is essentially safe, and the whole process (at home, in my garage, on my back) takes about (45) minutes. I can do it in (20) at my buddy's shop, but sometimes getting in there is a pain-in-the-ass and only worth is as far as being able to see everything that's going on underneath the car.

And, as always: your results may vary, stunts were performed using a professional driver on closed course. Please consult a doctor before changing your diet or exercise regimen, care for your car in the manner which you feel is best as there ARE wrong answers, but fewer of them than you might think. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental.
 

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If you want to leave the oil in there as long as possible, I would say 8000 miles but if you want to remove it at the first sign of below average viscosity and Flash point numbers, I would go with 6000 miles (see Attachment). I did mine at 5801 miles without knowing the results of the attached UOA done at 4800 which said even-though it fell barely below average, it would have averaged out at 5800 miles. Also on that UOA, the amount of additives remaining or TBN at 4800 miles indicated only half of the oil's additives were used (3.8) meaning it could go or could have went 4800+4800 =9600 miles!! This is why I say try 8000 miles if you want to max it out and 6000 if you don't because of the previously mentioned.
 

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Update: The oil, as we turn the page to winter, is working even better as we speak! The oil in the summer at 105+ temps was important for break-in but not much else but ofcourse, only focus on what's paramount. I am speaking of the Honda bulk full synthetic coming out of a drum but hey, who is counting, well I guess I am. I wouldn't use anything aftermarket oil other than OEM for up to 10 or even 20k of service.. Course don't want to think that far down when things are so peachy at around 6500 miles on this 2017 beauty.
 

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you can get it in now....since it's the first oil change. afterwards..if you use the synthetic, you can go by the MM (Maintenance Minder) going forward - unless you track it regularly.

i've been driving Honda's since the '80's. followed the MM pretty regularly and never an engine problem related to oil ever. never burned oil either. i'd say about 90% or more of all my oil changes were done at Honda with whatever oil they purchased that month.

p.s. - i've put over a million miles on the various Honda's i've owned.
 
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