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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What colour temp should I get to closely match the DRL? Everyone seems to have a different opinion...

For the headlights, are the bulbs H11. I am not sure if I am going to do the fogs or not, but with the 2 links provided I am also not sure which kit I would need for the fog lights anyways.

I was debating on this kit, but if anyone can give other options around the same price (or less) I would appreciate it.

Looking at either these 2 for the H11 kit, just not sure what the major difference is...:

1) https://www.xenondepot.com/H11-HID-Kit-Volt-HID-p/vdp-h11.htm <- $104.99 USD

or

2) https://www.xenondepot.com/H11-HID-Kit-Xtreme-HID-p/xt-h11.htm <- $154.99 USD



So which kit on here would you pick if you had to chose?
 

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I would pick the Morimoto kit over anything, but thats because that is what I have and have not had any issues. I have the Morimoto HID Elite 35w 6500K H11B kit and after 6 months of burn they match really well. Ive seen 5500K and they match really well also. do not buy the H11A or you will have a shadow from the filament in your beam pattern.

Of note, Ive seen from brand to brand the Kelvin rating output different colors for the same rating. Usually cheaper brands are off on the color spectrum. The Pictures Im attaching are a few months old so the bulbs match the DRL even better now. Don't forget the DRLs dim as well when your headlights come on.

I recently installed the Morimoto XB LED fog light replacement, and it was a direct bolt in replacement. The bumper does need to come off from what the shop told me though
 

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Temperatures are a hugely debatable topic.
In my experience (which isn't extensive by all means),
The first set of HIDs I ever purchased were 4,300K which closely resembled halogen colors.
On my EX-T, I'm running 6,000K in the projectors, and I modified my H11 bulbs to fit in my fog light housing.
The fog lights are supposed to be H8, which are almost exactly the same
except for the metal tabs that fit into the housing and lock in place.
If you shop for HIDs for a long time, you'll see that H8, H9 and H11 are typically grouped together.
I shop on Amazon for my HIDs, and they make the these 3 as universal as possible to reduce production costs.
The kits that I've had most success in running are Innovited. The housing is sturdy and very water/dust proof.
They run only $40 and the ballasts will out last the bulbs. I've had to replace bulbs probably about once every year or so.
Here's a link to the ones I use: Innovited 55W HIDs w/ SLIM ballasts for H11 H9 and H8 applications
https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Xe...e=UTF8&qid=1491952134&sr=8-3&keywords=H8+HIDs
But if you want to run XenonDepot (which is a reputable company), I think I'd rather go for the Philips bulbs, just because THAT is a HUGE brand.
I'm just too poor to get the quality stuff that lasts for years upon years without any issues.
 

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Temperatures are a hugely debatable topic.
In my experience (which isn't extensive by all means),
The first set of HIDs I ever purchased were 4,300K which closely resembled halogen colors.
On my EX-T, I'm running 6,000K in the projectors, and I modified my H11 bulbs to fit in my fog light housing.
The fog lights are supposed to be H8, which are almost exactly the same
except for the metal tabs that fit into the housing and lock in place.
If you shop for HIDs for a long time, you'll see that H8, H9 and H11 are typically grouped together.
I shop on Amazon for my HIDs, and they make the these 3 as universal as possible to reduce production costs.
The kits that I've had most success in running are Innovited. The housing is sturdy and very water/dust proof.
They run only $40 and the ballasts will out last the bulbs. I've had to replace bulbs probably about once every year or so.
Here's a link to the ones I use: Innovited 55W HIDs w/ SLIM ballasts for H11 H9 and H8 applications
https://www.amazon.com/Innovited-Xe...e=UTF8&qid=1491952134&sr=8-3&keywords=H8+HIDs
But if you want to run XenonDepot (which is a reputable company), I think I'd rather go for the Philips bulbs, just because THAT is a HUGE brand.
I'm just too poor to get the quality stuff that lasts for years upon years without any issues.
Keep in mind, that temperature color varies from bulb to bulb so the cheaper the brand the more likely it is the color wont be what a true K rating should be. Ive seen 6000k look blue from cheap brands when it should be white with blue tint
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would pick the Morimoto kit over anything, but thats because that is what I have and have not had any issues. I have the Morimoto HID Elite 35w 6500K H11B kit and after 6 months of burn they match really well. Ive seen 5500K and they match really well also. do not buy the H11A or you will have a shadow from the filament in your beam pattern.

Of note, Ive seen from brand to brand the Kelvin rating output different colors for the same rating. Usually cheaper brands are off on the color spectrum. The Pictures Im attaching are a few months old so the bulbs match the DRL even better now. Don't forget the DRLs dim as well when your headlights come on.

I recently installed the Morimoto XB LED fog light replacement, and it was a direct bolt in replacement. The bumper does need to come off from what the shop told me though
Does it have to be a canbus based setup or not?
 

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Does it have to be a canbus based setup or not?
You can choose either one. I ordered Canbus and put that in, but when I took my car in for fogs, the shop said, no way, get a relay on it and they ran the relay for me. much safer they said. You take the new heavier load off the factory lighting wiring harness. Over time the Canbus could overload your factory system and burn through the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can choose either one. I ordered Canbus and put that in, but when I took my car in for fogs, the shop said, no way, get a relay on it and they ran the relay for me. much safer they said. You take the new heavier load off the factory lighting wiring harness. Over time the Canbus could overload your factory system and burn through the wires.
Thanks, so basically kit 2 WITHOUT the canbus addon is all I would need? Makes me a little worried hearing about burnt wires...

But other than that kit there's nothing else I would need? Is there a guide anywhere on how to install this kit?
 

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Thanks, so basically kit 2 WITHOUT the canbus addon is all I would need? Makes me a little worried hearing about burnt wires...

But other than that kit there's nothing else I would need? Is there a guide anywhere on how to install this kit?
running the relay set up is safe. Im not sure about that kit, the morimoto kit came with instructions and it was fairly simple.
 

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I'm confused. The only time I see relays used is when you either need a canbus setup and don't have one, or when you are putting HIDs or LEDs on a bulb that functions as a DRL as well as low-beam
 

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I'm confused. The only time I see relays used is when you either need a canbus setup and don't have one, or when you are putting HIDs or LEDs on a bulb that functions as a DRL as well as low-beam
when installing an HID kit on 10th gens, you should run a relay so you take the heavier load off of the factory wiring for the lighting system since it wasn't designed to carry the load of HIDs and their ballasts. You can run canbus if you want but you take the risk of frying the factory wiring over time. Morimoto gives you the choice when you purchase to order either the relay kit which requires running an additional wire to the relay and the batter or the Canbus kit. The canbus kit does not require any additional wiring as its directly plug and play. Its worth the additional 5 minutes of work to run the relay.
 

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According to :

https://www.civicx.com/threads/10th-gen-civic-light-bulb-size-guide.22061/

The stock OEM halogen bulbs are 55watt for low/high beam and 35watt for fog lights.
In theory, if one were to purchase a 35watt hid kit,
there should be plenty of headroom on the stock headlight wiring.
I believe LED headlights draw significantly much less wattage than either halogen OR HID.
YES! I believe running the relay is much safer and better for defective HID kits, but
I wouldn't say it is absolutely necessary for most applications.

A scenario where a relay would be necessary is:
1) If your HIDs intermittently do no turn on or have flickering issues.
2) On vehicles with DRL through halogen systems.
3) If you're running HIDs or halogens that draw insane amounts of current:
Here's an example of that insane bulb.
 
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