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What Oil Do You Use?

88K views 32 replies 16 participants last post by  Killmonr 
#1 ·
Since we're on the topic of oil changes I though maybe someone here could get a thread going on brands and types of oil to use from those brands since I know some people swear by specific brands and grades of oil.

Gear heads swear by Motul.
Thought I'd start one here. So which oil is everyone using?
 
#7 ·
Depending on which dealer you go to, the dealer oil is typically you're regular brand because they buy in bulk. Chryslers all about Mobil 1 when you want full synthetic , but it's usually just whatever the local dealer can attain from the local suppliers for a good price.
 
#8 ·
The best built 0w20 IMO is Red Line's formula, I'd love to run it but since it is not API certified Honda could void my warranty and I have an extended warranty that I'd like to keep in place. I will have Honda do my oil changes but I may supply the oil to the dealer.


Hanging out at bobistheoilguy.com the Pennzoil sponsors are offering me enough oil for two full oil changes, plus used oil analysis testing kits , all for free, and they are supply Pennzoil Ultra which is their top notch synthetic oil. I'm going to run it on two oil change intervals after the factory fill is drained, depending on the test results I may keep running the Pennz. Ultra. My other choice would be Amsoil Signature Series 0w-20. All great oils.
 
#10 ·
Always with "Liqui Moly" "Simply the Best oil"

I know its pricey but this German made oil never let me down~!!!
It's a shame that their oil contains zero moly, despite the name, lol. My preferred additive in motor oil is Moly, but oddly enough Liqui Moly doesn't use it. Our factory fill oil comes with boatloads of Moly, Red Line and Motul use copious amounts of Moly much like our factory fill levels, some other brands use it at lesser levels, too bad Liqui Moly doesn't have any in their formula or I'd consider it. I'm sure it is a good oil though.
 
#14 ·
Darn it~ I've been fool for last 5years???

anyhow....I've noticed more smooth, silky drive and less engine noise with liqui moly...
oh~ and also getting more mileage(about 2miles) with my old 2005 highlander.......since than I'm stick with liqui moly and happy ^^
Stick with what you like and what works for you. It can still be a great oil but I just found it odd that the name and formula don't necessarily match. I believe they only weight they add moly to is 10w40 for some odd reason. There are many great oils without moly but I prefer it if at all possible.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I've only used full syn Mobil1 in all of my cars since 1993. Never ever had any engine problems, despite stretching change intervals out longer than they should have been.

I get 5 qt jugs at Walmart for about 25 bucks. Throw in a decent oil filter for 6 bucks, and every oil change is not much more than 30 bucks. Do I like doing it myself? No. Jacking up the car and cleaning up afterwards is a PITA, but I've never paid anyone to do an oil change, probably won't start now. I don't even know how much a full synthetic oil change costs.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I've only used full syn Mobil1 in all of my cars since 1993. Never ever had any engine problems, despite stretching change intervals out longer than they should have been.

I get 5 qt jugs at Walmart for about 25 bucks. Throw in a decent oil filter for 6 bucks, and every oil change is not much more than 30 bucks. Do I like doing it myself? No. Jacking up the car and cleaning up afterwards is a PITA, but I've never paid anyone to do an oil change, probably won't start now. I don't even know how much a full synthetic oil change costs.
Mobil1 is a great oil, they have come up with some great formulas over the years. For some odd reason they get a bad wrap on the internet and particularly with Honda owners for some reason. But they are one of the few manufacturers to pass the extreme RDX specification for Honda a few years back HTO-06, and got Honda's endorsement for that turbo motor in 5w30 viscosity, and the vehicles rolled off the assembly line with Mobil1 oils.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=202063
 
#17 ·
Ah the missing moly is being added by this MOS2 additive. It can't hurt if used in the appropriate concentration, check the recommended mix level as our sumps are kind of small. It is TUV approved so it is supposed to work as advertised. Don't go overboard with additives, if you add a few more cups of sugar to a cake recipe it doesn't necessary taste better, same thing with additives. Moly is a good additive to provide extra protection when boundary layer film strength is broken down and you get metal to metal contact. It may also leave a bit more wear protection between starts. At worst it may do nothing, at best it may help a bit in some instances.
 
#18 ·
Pennzoil is shipping me a 2 year supply of Pennzoil Ultra 0w-20 for free, all I have to do is send in sample used oil analysis after each run, and they pay for all of the oil, shipping, and used oil analysis kits. I couldn't resist the offer. They contacted me through bobistheoilguy.com and they are eager to test out our motors with their top notch synthetic oil.
 
#20 ·
I'll find a list of oils that Ive seen that breaks down moly levels.I believe Redline has some of the highest levels in their 0w/20 synthetic line.
 
#21 ·
If it was my choice I'd run Red Line 0w/20 in my Civic, it has a nice 9.0 viscosity at 100 degs C, and like their other formulas contains a large amount of Moly additive, pretty much along the levels of our factory fill oil. I run Red Line oil in my S2000 and recorded significant decreases in aluminum wear (pistons, cylinders, head cam journals) compared to all other oils that I've run and tested.


Unfortunately Red Line is not API certified so Honda could put the screws to me if I ever had an engine failure, I really want to run it though.
 
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#22 ·
#23 ·
I stuck this thread as this is a popular topic and common question.
 
#24 ·
Didn't realize that Red Line was that good.

With how much Motul is praised in the Honda community I wonder if that does some level of good similar to Red Line?
Unless all the hype around Motul is just that, hype.

Glad to see this thread progressing well.
 
#25 ·
I'm going with Amsoil signature series 0w20 for my first oil change.Also here is a link to a interesting site that compares oils and the additives.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/
 
#26 ·
Extra Virgin Olive... that's what I use.


As for my car, it will be full synthetic 0W20. I've had good success with Mobil 1 over the years, but can't believe other major brands are not sufficient.


I do annual oil & filter changes on my cars using this full synthetic. We avoid short trips or engine idling. The engine has always trouble-free for the life of the car.


This includes my last one, which we had for 17 years and 170,000 miles and never used oil.
 
#27 ·
Ohhhh Popeye gonna be maaaaaad.
 
#29 ·
OW-20 (per Owner Manual) MOBILE 1 Extended Performance - guaranteed up to 20,000 miles they advertise - recent WEB Page stated this as BEST Oil
5.7 quart , so 5 quarts $29 and half of 1 quart $10 (yikes)
Honda OEM Oil Filter (forgot number - for 2021 Honda Type R)
11.6 k miles, and my car instrument panel stated 15% oil life - so i just did my First (2nd owner) Oil Change (6k was 1st oil change per records)
CABIN AIR Filter was replaced by Me - it was Filthy with little leaves, dust, un-hook Glove Box for install - SUGGESTED Change every 5-7k miles $15 part
Engine DROP IN Filter was replaced by Me - K&N high performance, washable, n re-oil it with a "K&N Clean KIT" (ugh) 50% more air flow, 4 hp increase per WEB pages -
ADDS louder Swoosh, Voom FINISH on accelerations - it is a New Sound, Neat-O affect
 
#30 ·
I started out with 0-20w liqui moli top tec 6200. But I decided to put an aggressive power tune and switched over to Tribo-Dyn Tri ex² w/ceramic. And let me tell you. This stock 1.5L had everyone shook at the power she had when I revved her up to 6,000 rpm in town(I may have embarrassed someone with a white 23' Type R behind me as well) it was hilarious 😂
 
#32 ·
"If" we pay attn to every oil seminar there is, esp on cylinder scoring with direct injection (L&N Engineering and Lake jr over at Total Seal -
Their synopsis is - Move up one viscosity from where the factory asks which I think is 0 -30 ? so go to 5-30 for better protection.
Sorry tooo many cars in my head but that's the drift.
 
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